Archive for June, 2009
(NOTE: It looks like our server move has been successful (Thanks Darly!) and everything should be in its place, if it´s not please let us know.))
On common mistake that home-cooks and professional cooks make, is over cooking delicate ingredients such as fresh mussels and king prawns.
A bowl of steamed fresh mussels is a wonderful experience. Overcook the mollusks and you are left with a shriveled chewy piece of seafood. And that is dreadful, send them back to the kitchen!!…. 
The best way to cook mussels is to steam them over a high flame, ever so briefly, just until they have opened, but not fully. The end result is a gelatinous morsel, exquisite, elegant and cheap. 
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We cook ours in a covered hot wok with shallots, lemongrass and white wine. Once they have opened we turn off the flame.
A gentle toss is all that is needed to finish the cooking.
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The site will be offline a short period as our webmaster does a bit of spring (or summer) cleaning and moves us to a new server.
Another excuse to take a break…
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We´ll be back soon…
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Walking around town you cannot help but notice the hand drawn signs chalked on blackboards proclaiming “Hay Caracoles!”, (We Have Snails, or Snails Available) there is usually a cute drawing of a snail accompanying the wording.
As you may have guessed, Caracoles are small Spanish snails that are in season now, and every Tapas Bar has their own recipe.
Drive through the countryside and you can see people collecting the snails from plants and tree trunks. If you don’t fancy stopping to pick your own snails, you can easily buy them from vendors at round-abouts offering them by the 5kg bag.
Housewives prepare these snails by the pot load and they are shared and distributed to family, friends and neighbours. The snails are first purged for a few days before being cooked in a broth with herbs and spices.
To eat them, all you have to do grip the head of the snail (with your teeth) and pull it out of its shell (its okay to slurp if you must ). The highly flavoured broth can be enjoyed at the same time or served apart.
Such was the abundance of Caracoles we decided to have some fun and serve them in our own way. 
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“Escape to Freedom”.
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Our presentation of Caracoles kindly prepared for us by Ani, one of our cleaning ladies (whose recipe will follow her to the grave….. 
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One of my favourite food memories involves Chinese restaurants. When I was younger, a trip to London Chinatown was an event. The sight of roasted ducks, chickens and pork hanging in the restaurant windows and the aroma of spices and wok cooking were very inviting.
A weekend visit to a Dim Sum restaurant was a reward for a hard week´s work, or a impromptu family get together.
During the week, if I was in the area, I would treat myself to a take-away Roast Duck and Rice and always ask for a small pot of Chilli Oil (or Chilli in Oil).
Good Chilli Oil is wonderful, the slight sweetness that accompanies the roasted hotness is something remarkable. A good Chilli Oil has “body”.
Sadly, most restaurants no longer serve the Chilli Oil that I grew to love. They have replaced it instead with Chilli Infused Oils.
These oils are just hot, without a hint of roasted flavour or a balance of sweetness. Sometimes they just provide you with a small bowl of reddish oil that has been seeped in chilli and pass that off as Chilli Oil.
Over that past few months I have been trying to create a new Chilli Oil. I wanted something that would give me the roasted hotness, sweetness and saltiness that I tasted in my younger days, yet be a bit more daring and refined.
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Because I had no base recipe of ingredients to work from, I had to start from scratch. I knew that it would obviously contain Chillies and Oil.
The first step was to make an acceptable Chilli Infused Oil, later I would look at the other ingredients that would give my Chilli Oil its character.
I knew that the chillies had to be dried ones, these would give the oil its wonderful colour and aroma.
Various test ensued with different dried chillies. “Bird Eyes” chillies were far too hot to do anything with, they would only overpower the finished product. Dried Thai Chillies were also too hot and none of the mentioned chillies had any roasted aroma.
On one test to get the “roasted aroma”, I dry pan roasted a selection of chillies, then infused them with hot oil.
The result was a bitter tasting oil. Not only had I dry roasted the chillies, I had also further cooked them by adding the hot oil, making them bitter.
I would need to watch the temperature of the oil that I was adding, too hot and it would “deep fry” the chillies further, making them black and brittle.
Further tests continued with different chillies and oils at different temperatures.
Finally after many trials I found a dried chilli that wasn’t too hot, yet had a roasted flavour that was obtained by the heat from the hot oil. Dried Cayenne Chilli, or Cayenne Pepper.
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There was no need to dry fry them at all! In fact, these chillies are actually semi dried, meaning that they still have a tiny amount of moisture inside, the membranes remain slightly chewy. I had found my chillies at last!. All I had to do was blitz them and add oil.
There was really no question regarding the oil. Olive Oil proved too overpowering, so I chose Sunflower Oil for its neutral flavour.
To infuse anything, the liquid ingredient, in our case the oil, has to be hot. (Just like making tea, which is basically an infusion of hot water and tea leaves).
As with making tea, the temperature of the water is very important. The ideal temperature should be between 75º and 83ºC depending on the tea leaves used, and not boiling water.
In order to get the oil to infuse with the dried chillies and also “cook them” and give them that “roastiness”, trials proved that 130ºC was an ideal temperature, any higher and the chilli flakes would become bitter, any much lower and they would become “soggy” and retain too much moisture and hence remain chewy.
Finally I had the infused oil worked out, the hardest part was yet to come.
Body and Sweetness. The later I knew would be provided by sugar, but what amount? I didn’t want the sweetness to play the lead role, it had to be a co-star in my Chilli Oil play.
For the “body” I needed something that had its own unique flavour and charm. I tried a host of dried Chinese shrimps, Japanese scallops, and French mushrooms. They were good, all high in concentrated flavour, but the best was something that I would find surprising and closer to home.. Ham.
Not any Ham, but the best ham in the world. Jámon Ibérico de Bellota. Spanish dry cured and aged acorn fed ham.
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Four years ago on a bright and hot sunny day, I went to Malaga Airport to pick up, what would be the Laocooks.
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Though the current team have been here since 2005, their journey started towards the end of 2003.
Back then I had been sent to Thailand and Laos to look for a team of cooks to join me in Spain. After lengthy interviews and “test” meals in various restaurants, my hand-picked team and I started the paper work to get the required work permits to join me in Europe.
This process took 18 long months, and included (for them) many visits to the Spanish Embassy in Bangkok and an endless amount of “red tape”.
Finally when all the paper work was completed, they started their journey to the south of Spain. The cooks I had chosen from Laos had traveled on the overnight train to Bangkok to meet up with the Thai cooks. They had never met each other before and I can only imagine the excitement and trepidation that they felt leaving their families and friends behind to find a new life.
Some of them had never been abroad before, or even traveled on an airplane. Their route took them from Bangkok to Zurich, then on to Malaga. They even refused food and drink on the airplanes because they didn’t have any currency to what they would later find out were free meals and refreshments!
Throughout the years, many people have passed through the Laocook Kitchens. Either as cooks, waiting staff or interns, and I thank each and everyone of them for their input, hard work and trust.
Looking back through the posts on the site I can see the many changes that our food has gone through. Not only have we grown in to an extended family, our food has also progressed.
You can only be a good Chef if you have a good team behind you. A good team is the backbone of a good kitchen.
Some of the Laocooks still raise their eyebrows at some of my ideas. I still recall their reaction in 2006 to my “Tom Yum Foam”.
It is great to have a good team with such a wide and varied experience in the kitchen. Innovation follows Tradition. Without one, the other cannot exist.
This post is about the current Laocook Team, and who they are.
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Kittirat Pongsri, a.k.a Kit.
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Kit was my first contact in Thailand and related to a friend of my family. He had no formal kitchen training and whilst waiting for the work permit paperwork he went to work for free in various restaurants in and around his hometown of Bangkok. He came to Spain as a commis cook and has now worked his way up the brigade to become a chef de partie in our European restaurant.
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Phayungsak Srilapho, a.ka. Saki, working in Bangkok.
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I took this photo of Saki as he was preparing my dinner in a Japanese restaurant in Bangkok. Saki is from the north of Thailand and speaks fluent Lao, which is good for me as I cannot speak Thai!
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Saki is now responsible for our Sushi and Teppanyaki sections.
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Pichet Taiwarin, a.k.a Kuchi. Cheers!
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Kuchi is also from the north of Thailand and speaks fluent Lao and also a lot of Spanish!
He began his catering career at the food markets that are usually found on the top of large Bangkok shopping centres. Kuchi is a deft hand at fish and serves as my second Sushi cook and is also responsible at times for our breakfast shifts, which means starting work at 05.00hrs! 
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Khamhoung Thammavong, a.k.a Kham.
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Kham is our “meat and hot section” cook. That means that he is responsible for the hot section which includes the wok-burners and preparation for that section as well as being in charge of the meats that arrive to the kitchen, from Beef, Pork, Chicken and Duck.
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Kham´s Roasted Duck, which only the breasts will be used for our dish, meat cooked “on the bone” is more succulent and tender.
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Khamsene Yothasy, a.k.a. Sen.
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Sen is my Sous Chef and second in command my brigade. He is an “all rounder” who can work any section in the kitchen. As my “right hand man” he also helps me with the menus and orders for the kitchen.
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A lot of my new ideas and dishes are discussed in meetings with Sen. Once an idea has taken form, I will ask him his opinion from a traditional aspect.
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Sen is a great technician and also teaches and advises the other Laocooks.
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To all my team members, past and present, I want to
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Thank you for today, and every day.
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